Two Things Remembered

The "wood thing" for winding balls of yarn that I found in an antique store is a nostepinne.




Native Seeds Search is the name of the store in Tucson that I mentioned.

Tapestry Weaving and Viking Woolen Sails

Helena Hernmarck, Tapestry Weaver, http://hernmarck.com/index.shtml (Make sure to view the slide show.)

Viking Woolen Sails, http://www.vikingeskibsmuseet.dk/index.php?id=1313&L=1

Thanks, Mary, for the links!

Weaving History Timeline

- c. 6000 BC – Evidence of woven textiles used to wrap the dead at Çatalhöyük in Anatolia.
- c. 5000 BC – Production of linen cloth in Ancient Egypt, along with other bast fibers including rush, reed, palm, and papyrus.
- 298 AD – earliest attestation of a foot-powered loom with a hint the invention arose at Tarsus
- "The evidence of surviving textiles and entries in the Edict of Diocletian (A. D. 301) suggest that the first horizontal loom was developed by Roman weavers in the eastern provinces, probably in Syria, not long before A. D. 250. Fitted with multiple heddle-rods, the loom was used to weave damask silks with geometric patterns. An advanced model in which the patterning device was separate from the basic binding device for the first time was available by about A. D. 400, and was used for damask silks with a fluid-outline pattern and for weft-faced compound tabbies." (Wild, John Peter, "The Roman Horizontal Loom," American Journal of Archaeology, Vol. 91, No. 3, Jul., 1987).
- Horizontal looms introduced into Europe in the 10th, 11th, or 12th centuries, depending on what authority you reference
- 1733 – John Kay patented the flying shuttle.
- 1784 – Edmund Cartwright invented the power loom.
- 1801 – Joseph Marie Jacquard invented the Jacquard punched card loom.
- 1813 – William Horrocks improved the power loom.
- 1814 – Paul Moody of the Boston Manufacturing Company built the first power loom in the United States; beginnings of the "Waltham System"
- 1842 – Bullough and Kenworthy developed the Lancashire loom, a semi-automatic power loom.
- 1889 – Northrop Loom: Draper Corporation, First automatic bobbin changing weaving loom placed in production.
- c. 1920 – Hattersley loom developed by George Hattersley and Sons.

Week 2 - February 9 - Primary Sources

Joan, Countess of Flanders: Grant to Weavers of Exemption from the Taille, 1224, http://www.fordham.edu/halsall/source/1224Exmptail.asp

The Law of the Fullers & Weavers of Winchester, 1209,  http://www.fordham.edu/halsall/source/1209Weavers2.asp

The Regulations of the Weavers' Gild of Stendal, 1233,  http://www.fordham.edu/halsall/source/1233Weavers4.asp

Two Apprenticeship Agreements for Weavers, c. 1250 [Arras and Marseilles],  http://www.fordham.edu/halsall/source/1250weaversapp.asp

Boileau, Etienne, Livre des Métiers, (13th century) - regulations of the guilds in Paris. 100 occupations were listed, 6 restricted to women, 80 that women could work in,  http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/CadresFenetre?O=NUMM-110190&I=1&M=pagination (in French)


Weaver, Nürnberg, c. 1425, http://www.nuernberger-hausbuecher.de/75-Amb-2-317-4-v/data

Weaving

The Pattern Shop in Forest Mill, Selkirk, Scotland, 1900,  http://scottishtextileheritage.org.uk/imageGallery/image.asp?intID=10#


The National Museum of the American Coverlet,  http://www.coverletmuseum.org/default.htm





Detail Spanish silk lampas textile, circa 14th century.
Abbegg-Stiftung Collection; published in Mittelalterliche Textilien I, Otavsky, 1995, catalog number 224.
http://www.weavingartmuseum.org/animals/01_forward_detail2.html





Cloth woven from undyed spider silk. Watch the video at the American Museum of Natural History website: http://www.amnh.org/exhibitions/spidersilk/

Week 2 - February 9 - References

De Foe, Daniel, Tour through the Whole Island of Great Britain, 1727 - Describes the domestic putting-out system common in Great Britain in the 18th century.

Hentschell, Roze, "Clothworkers and Social Protest: The Case of Thomas Deloney," Comitatus: A Journal of Medieval and Renaissance Studies, 32(1), 2001 - http://escholarship.org/uc/item/4jn1v3br#page-1 - A 16th-century case.

Radcliffe, William, Origin of the New System of Manufacture commonly called ‘Power-Loom Weaving. Stockport, 1828 - Portrays the lives of domestic weavers prior to the use of industrial looms.

Warden, Alexander J., The Linen Trade, Ancient and Modern. London, 1864.

Young, Arthur, A Six Week Tour, through the Southern Counties of England and Wales, 1768.

A Working Spinning Mill in Maine

View a video of Bartlettyarns, a working spinning mill in Maine with a spinning mule,  http://www.wcsh6.com/news/article/114119/0/Behind-the-scenes-at-Bartlettyarns (thanks to Mary in our class)

Spinning

Luttrell Psalter, British Library, London, 14th c. England,  http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/sacredtexts/ttpbooks.html

1170 Hunterian Psalter Eve spinning,  http://special.lib.gla.ac.uk/exhibns/psalter/psalterindex.html

British Library, early 14th century

Gothic Spinning Virgin, Erfurter Meister, Staatliche Museum, Gemäldgalerie, Berlin

Mary Spinning with  Joseph before the Birth of Jesus,  Strasbourg, Musee de Notre-Dame I’Oeuvre, inv 1482

Paris, Bibliothèque nationale, fr. 12420, f. 71 Gaia. Early 15th century.
















Romanesque Spinning Virgin, Catalan Fresco, Museu d'Art de Catalunya, Barcelona

The Virgin Spinning (Hungarian, unknown artist)

Unwinding thread from the drop spindle and making a skein. MS Fr. 599, f. 48, Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris. 15th c. France

Weaving, spinning, and combing flax. MS Fr. 598, f. 70v, Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris. 15th c. France















Weaving, spinning, carding wool, and combing flax. MS Royal 16 Gv, f. 56, British Library, London. 15th c. France

Woman spinning flax using a drop spindle and distaff. MS Fr. 599, f. 40, Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris. 15th c. France

MS 17, Musee Dobree, Nantes 16th c. France

















Woman spinning on a great wheel which is turned by a crank. MS 17, Musee Dobree, Nantes 16th c. France

Felting

Artifacts dating from the 3rd century BCE found in the Pazyryk region of the Altai Mountains in southern Siberia, in the State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, Russia, http://depts.washington.edu/silkroad/museums/shm/shmpazyryk.html


Pompeii, prior to 79 CE. Pillar found in the Fullonica at VI.8.20. The painting shows the fulling of a piece of cloth. The owl on the bleaching frame was a symbol of Minerva, the goddess of weaving (among other things).
http://pompeiiinpictures.org/R6/6%2008%2020%20p2.htm



















For information on traditional felt making in Turkey, with some examples, visit the Turkish Cultural  Foundation website: http://www.turkishculture.org/fabrics-and-patterns/felt-107.htm.

Week 1 - February 2 - References

Aspin, Chris, The Cotton Industry, Shire Publications, 1981.
Aspin, Chris, The Woollen Industry, Shire Publications, 1982.
Baines, Patricia, Spinning Wheels, Spinners, & Spinning, B.T. Batsford Ltd., 1977.
Bush, Sarah, The Silk Industry, 2nd ed. Shire Publications, 2000.
Gillow, John and Sentance, Bryan, World Textiles: A Visual Guide to Traditional Techniques, Thames & Hudson, 1999.
Henson, Elizabeth, British Sheep Breeds, Shire Publications, 1986.
Ingram, Arthur, Shepherding Tools and Customs, Shire Publications, 1977.
Leadbeater, Elliza, Spinning and Spinning Wheels, Shire Publications, 1979.
Vickery, Anne Einset, Felting by Hand, Craft Works Publishing, 1987.

Sciaky, Carla, "Spin the Weaver's Song," Green Linnet Records, 1992.